Bar Gaditano opened in 2019 in a former tobacconist on Calle Álamos. The room seats twenty-two; the kitchen is roughly the size of a walk-in wardrobe. What comes out of it is a short menu of Andalusian small plates that changes with the market — tuna from Barbate, oil from the family grove near Priego de Córdoba, whatever the boats brought in that morning at La Merced.
We are not a tapas bar in the tourist sense. There is no free plate with your drink, no chalkboard specials, no complicated wine list. There is a room, a short menu, a fridge of sherry and biodynamic wine from small Andalusian growers, and — if you are lucky and the harbour was kind — a plate of something the owner is still slightly excited about.